Crafting a piece of custom jewelry is painstakingly meticulous work where true excellence is measured on a microscopic level. Below is a detailed behind-the-scenes look at the fabrication process of our popular 3 Stones Engagement Ring.
Step 1) Inspiration
First, the client requested a diamond center with sapphire accents, and was looking for a nature theme but with a traditional approach.
Step 2) Sketch
After learning about the client and his story, Master Jeweler Jesh Rosestone drew up this preliminary sketch which the client approved as on the right track.
Step 3) Technical Drawing
After agreeing on budget and time frame, the client selected the size of his stones and put down a deposit. Jesh put together a technical drawing that gets worked into a 3D CAD model of the finished piece.
Step 4) CAD Model
Based on the technical drawing, Jesh’s team puts together a 3D model of the piece. This step allows Jesh and the client to get a better sense of proportions and offer feedback for small design changes.
Step 5) Wax Model
Using the CAD Model, Jesh 3D prints a wax model of the ring that will be used in the metal casting process. The wax model is put on a wax tree, invested with plaster and then burned out in a kiln overnight.
Step 6) Gold Casting
Here you can see us pouring molten gold into the wax tree inside the kiln.
Step 7) Break the Mold
The gold filled flask is then plunged into water while it is still hot. This causes the plaster mold to shatter.
Step 8) Clean the Plaster
After the mold is broken, the wax tree from before is now filled with gold and the piece is starting to come to life. The pieces are separated and the plaster is cleaned off to start the finishing process on the ring.
Step 9) Polishing
This is what the ring looks like after all the plaster has been cleaned but before the metal has been polished. Notice all the fine bumps and pits. This is part of the casting process and all these imperfections must be removed by hand.
Step 10) Detailing
The ring is now polished and shiny. This is where most jewelers would stop but Jesh has dozens of hours of detailing to go.
Step 11) Hand Chasing
Using a technique called chasing, Jesh carefully sculpts the leaves into these delicate flowing forms. This technique involves filling in the negative space with pine pitch to support the ring while Jesh hammers on it.
Step 12) Stone Setting
Finally, the stones are set, the ring is buffed and rhodium plated, and ultimately, the piece is complete!